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The Sculpted Bezel

So much emphasis is often placed on designing a piece of jewelry around a beautiful stone, but what about the design of the bezel itself? This 3-day workshop investigates the sculpted bezel and how one can transform a stone setting from ordinary to extraordinary. The structural integrity of these heavier, stronger bezels allows one to sculpt and decorate them, creating more dramatic and unique stone settings. This type of bezel is strong enough to bridge the span across a ring shank or bracelet without compromising the structural integrity of the piece. In this class students will be instructed on how to measure, form and shape bezels out of sterling or fine silver sheet 22g – 16g.

Due to the substance of these bezels, a great deal of time will be spent using a variety of forming pliers for precise bending and shaping to accommodate a wide range of unusually shaped faceted and cabochon stones. Students are encouraged to bring to class any stones tht have presented difficult challenges for setting. Time will be spent problem solving for all types of settings. These bezels can be carved with files, have prongs applied, sawed to create modulating edges and hammered for textured edges. Use of burs to carve stone setting seats for proper fit will be covered.  

Students will be taught how to hammer set stones.  This process makes using heavier gauges of silver easier to close down and creates a lovely burnished edge. They will also be shown and taught how to make more sculptural ring shanks out of heavier gauges og sterling, through forging and filing.

Many examples will be shown and discussed.  Handouts will be provided.

Meet the instructor

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Pauline has a B.A. in Art from the University of Southern Maine and completed a 3 year apprenticeship to Master Goldsmith Philip Morton, earning a Journeyman Metalsmithing Certificate (1975). She is an Artisan member of the Society of American Silversmiths and has exhibited her work nationally and internationally. Her business, Warg Designs Inc., was established in 1975 for the design and creation of jewelry and hollowware.

 

 

Pauline has taught at the University of New Hampshire, the Manchester Institute of Art (also in New Hampshire), the Jewelry Institute in Providence, Rhode Island, and the Maine College of Art.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Materials & Tools

There is a $50 materials fee for this workshop that is payable to the instructor in class. The materials kit will include all the silver materials needed to have each student complete one heavy gauge sculpted ring. 

The instructor will also have additional materials and tools available for shared use. These include specialized setting tools, files, sandpaper, hammers, and texturing hand tools. Some tools will also be available for sale by the instructor. 

Students should bring
  • Basic hand tools: metal ruler, saw & blades, files (needle and 6” #2  ½ round hand file) etc.
  • Magnifying glasses if needed
  • paper and pencil
  • larger than ½ inch faceted &/or cabochon stones, irregular shapes OK
 

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